Tire replacement runs $60 to $180 in our network's typical range, and a flat repair runs $40 to $120. Both numbers sit above what a bicycle shop would quote for the same words, and there are real reasons for that. Ebike tires wear faster because of weight, torque, and speed, the replacement tires that hold up cost more, and on a hub-motor bike the rear wheel is a small electrical job as well as a mechanical one. The tables below split the ranges by symptom and brand.
What drives the price
The tire itself, first. Our recommendation on a heavy bike is an e-rated tire, like the Schwalbe or Maxxis ebike lines: they carry stiffer casings and better puncture belts, and they cost more than the commodity tire they replace. Size is the second driver. Common sizes are cheap and everywhere; specialty sizes are not. Super73's moto-style 20x4-plus tires are the clearest example in our brand table, at $80 to $200, and standard fat-bike tires do not always fit the rim profile, so the right tire has to be on the van when we arrive.
Third, and biggest: which wheel. A front tire is a tire. A rear tire on a hub-motor bike means disconnecting the motor cable and hitting proper axle torque on reinstall, and many hub motors use nutted axles rather than quick releases. That is the labor gap between this page and a bicycle tire quote.
Where the money goes
On a front wheel, the part is most of the story and the labor is quick. On a rear motor wheel, labor takes a real share of the bill: cable disconnection, wrestling a heavy wheel, seating the axle correctly, and torquing it to spec. Add-ons like sealant, liners, or a tubeless setup are parts-plus-a-little-labor and are quoted up front.
DIY or call a tech
Front flats and front tire swaps are a genuine owner job: a patch kit or tube, levers, and a pump. If you keep tires at pressure and check monthly for wear and embedded debris, you will also catch most problems before they strand you.
The rear wheel is doable at home but awkward without a stand and the right wrenches, and getting axle torque wrong on a motor wheel is an expensive way to save a callout. What we see on the bench is that owners do the front themselves and book the rear, which is exactly the split we would suggest.
When replacement beats repair
Stop patching when the tire itself is done. Squared-off center tread, visible casing threads, or sidewall cracking all mean replacement, not another tube. If you are getting repeat flats on healthy tread, the move is prevention: puncture-resistant tires, liners, or sealant, which is cheap compared to callouts. Replacing just the worn tire is the normal job, and on a hub-drive bike that is usually the rear, since it does the driving and most of the wearing. Doing both at once only makes sense for a stated reason: both tires are at the end of their life, or you are changing tire type and the bike needs a matched pair.
Mobile repair fits this job well: the tech arrives with the right tire for your model, handles the motor-wheel work in your driveway, and gives you an estimate before touching the bike. Mention your model when booking so the right size is on the van.